diamond rib socks


This is a pattern for top-down socks that I made a few years ago when I was trying to come up with a textured rib sock pattern to knit for my husband.  I set it aside and forgot about it until I was trying to come up with something original to knit with my kettle-dyed yarn that my sister and I are selling at our summer market booth.  So I wound a ball and knit these up, taking careful notes along the way.  I decided to call them Diamond Rib because the pattern, when stretched out, looks like little diamonds.

I wrote this pattern describing all the steps, but most people have their preferred way of doing socks and probably all you need is the 10-row, 10-stitch pattern.  This is my way and works for me and is the basic way I like to knit socks, changing up the pattern for the leg and foot.  I’m not a sock designer and probably haven’t described the steps in the most simply easy way.  So I’m sorry if this is confusing.  Please let me know if I’ve made a mistake or if I am unclear on some things.

mountainside rib sock collage

Materials: 1 skein of fingering weight sock yarn.  For the sample, I used our Emerald Lotus Peruvian Highland Wool, 440 yards, in African Violet.

Needles:  Size 2.25mm needles.  This pattern is written using the Magic Loop method, but could be easily adapted to 2 circulars or double-pointed needles.

Notions:  Stitch markers, sewing needle.

Gauge:  7.5 stitches/inch in stockinette.  If you need to adjust to get gauge, I would suggest changing the needle size.  This is a 10-stitch pattern and you’d have to increase or decrease your number of stitches by 10.

Rib pattern:  (repeat these ten stitches to the end of each row)

  1. k1, p4, k4, p1 …
  2. k2, p3, k3, p2 …
  3. k3, p2, k2, p3 …
  4. k4, p1, k1, p4 …
  5. k5, p5 …
  6. k4, p1, k1, p4 …
  7. k3, p2, k2, p3 …
  8. k2, p3, k3, p2 …
  9. k1, p4, k4, p1 …
  10. p5, k5 …

Cast on: 60 stitches, dividing the stitches between the two needles.

Ribbing:  2 x 2 x 2.  Knit 2, purl 2 for 2 inches.

Leg:  Switch to rib pattern for leg.  Repeat these 10 rows for the desired length.  I did 5 repeats of the pattern for the sample socks.

It’s not imperative that you finish the leg with Row 10, but I find it is much easier to keep track of the rows to finish with Row 10 and start again at Row 1  when working on the Gusset.  Or just keep track of where you left off…

Heel Flap:  The heel is worked over 1/2 of your stitches, so 30 stitches, and is worked back and forth on these 30 stitches rather than continuing in a circular manner.  It’s a 2-row pattern, worked for 30 rows.

  1. Slip* 1, k1, slip 1 … end with k1.  turn.
  2. Slip 1, purl to end.  turn.

Heel Turn:  Worked over the 30 stitches after you have knit the Heel Flap.

  1. Slip 1, k16, k2 tog, k1.  turn.
  2. Slip 1, p5, p2 tog, p1.  turn.
  3. Slip 1, k6, k2 tog, k1.  turn.
  4. Slip 1, p7, p2 tog, p1.  turn.

Repeat the rows, increasing the knit or purl stitches in between the slip st and k/p together by 1, until you have knit all the stitches and have 18 stitches on your needle, ending with a purl row.

Final row: Slip 1, k17.  Do Not Turn.  Place a stitch marker in the middle, 9 stitches on either side.

Gusset:  With the same needle, pick up the slipped stitches along the side of the heel flap.  Starting with the stitch closest to the needle, pick up and knit 15 stitches and then pick up 1 stitch in the V between that last stitch and the 30 stitches that have been holding while the heel was knit, and knit into the back of that stitch..

Using the needle that was holding the pattern stitches, knit across the 30 stitches in the Rib Pattern, continuing the rows from where you left off.

Using the heel needle, pick up 1 stitch in the V, knitting into the back of that stitch, then pick up and knit 15 stitches along the other side of the heel flap.  Knit 9 stitches of the Heel to the stitch marker.  This is the set up row for the Gusset.  If you’re starting the Rib Pattern from Row 1, this helps keep the odd/knit, even/decrease sequence.  You will now have 50 stitches on your Heel Needle and 30 stitches on your Pattern Needle.  Knit rows are odd.  Decrease rows are even.

Next row is an even row and a decrease row..  Knit 9 stitches (heel), 13 stitches (picked up along heel flap), k2 tog, k1.  Knit the 30 stitches on the Pattern Needle continuing the pattern rows.  Using the Heel Needle, k1, ssk, k13 stitches (picked up along heel flap), knit 9 stitches (heel).  You should be at the marker now.  That is Row 2 of the Gusset Pattern.

  1. Knit stitches to 30 pattern stitches.  Knit pattern stitches.  Knit stitches to marker.
  2. Knit stitches to 30 pattern stitches, stopping 3 before end.  K2 tog, k1.  Knit pattern stitches.  K1, ssk, knit remaining stitches to marker.

Repeat these 2 rows until you have 30 stitches remaining on your Heel Needle.  It should be 20 rows.  When you get to the last row, remove the marker and knit to the end of the needle.

Foot:  Knit foot continuing the Rib Pattern on the Pattern Needle and stockinette stitch on the Heel Needle, until you are approximately 2 inches from the end of your toes, preferably ending at Row 5 or Row 10 of the Rib Pattern.

Toe Decrease:  From here on out, it’s all stockinette stitch.

  1. Knit.
  2. k1, ssk, knit to last 3 stitches, k2 tog, k1. (do this on each needle so you are decreasing by 4 stitches every other row)

Repeat for until you have 10 stitches on each needle and end with Row 1 (knit row).  Break your yarn, leaving a 10″ tail.  Graft the toe closed and weave in the ends with your sewing needle.

* Slip stitches are slipped knitwise or purlwise depending on the row.  Knit rows = knitwise; purl rows = purlwise.

Printable PDF


edit 7/23/14:  I have a new pdf linked on this page (above) and on Ravelry.  It is a two-page printable pdf.  Please let me know if there are any problems with it.  Happy knitting!  Kate



Copyright © Kate Lore.  This pattern is offered for free and is for personal use only, not to be sold.  Contact me if you have any questions or problems with the pattern. 

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